Question 1

What should I do if I smell gas?

Accepted Answer

Leave the area immediately. Do not operate switches or the appliance. Don't use your phone indoors. Once you are outside, call your gas utility's emergency line or 911. Do not return to the area until cleared to do so by authorities.

Question 2

What does a gas leak smell like?

Accepted Answer

Most people describe it as like rotten eggs, a skunk, sulfur, or a struck match. It is not subtle, by design. What you are smelling in a gas leak is an added odorant.

Question 3

Why are gas leaks dangerous?

Accepted Answer

They can easily lead to explosions and fires and can be started by almost any spark once the concentration of gas is high enough. The spark could come from a light switch, doorbell, garage door opener, the start of a refrigerator compressor, and more.

A gas leak’s most obvious warning sign is the smell, but that isn’t meant to do anything more than to get you to act immediately. You also can’t tell how much gas has built up, and a delay in reporting one makes it worse, especially if your nose gets used to the smell.

Even if there isn’t a fire or explosion, gas at high concentrations displaces oxygen, causing dizziness, headaches, nausea and a loss of consciousness. You need to leave and call the authorities.

Question 4

How can I tell if I have a gas leak, as opposed to normal operation?

Accepted Answer

If the odor is only when the range ignites and goes away in a second or two, that is likely normal operation, but you may not be able to tell the difference.

A brief odor during ignition can occur, but any persistent, strong, or unexplained gas odor calls for leaving the area and contacting the utility or 911 from a safe distance. Do not rely on smell alone.

Remember, reporting a possible gas leak is free and fast. Guessing wrong about one is neither.

Question 5

Beyond the odor, what are the other signs of a gas leak?

Accepted Answer

A hissing or whistling sound near the appliance, dead or discolored plants over a buried line, or bubbles in standing water.

Question 6

How long will a range have that “new appliance smell”?

Accepted Answer

It depends on how you use it, but generally one to three uses, or after a few hours of operation. The new appliance smell is typically caused by protective coatings, oils, and manufacturing residues burning off the heating elements, interior surfaces, and insulation, so it’s not an ongoing chemical issue. If your first use is extensive, the smell will generally fade faster. Some people report that it’s completely gone after just one long bake (one hour, 350°F), but your owner’s manual may vary and is the final word.

If the smell persists significantly beyond this period or gets stronger rather than weaker, that’s a cause for concern. If the smell is distinctly like burning plastic or electrical wires, that’s different than a normal break-in odor.

Question 7

Is new appliance smell in a range harmful to highly sensitive or high-risk individuals?

Accepted Answer

Some people report a mild headache, throat irritation or stuffy feeling. If you have concerns, ventilate the area and contact Kenmore or your professional installer.

Question 8

Why won’t my range burner light, or why does it click repeatedly before igniting?

Accepted Answer

Generally this is caused by burner ports or caps being clogged or dirty.

Food debris, spills or grease can block the small holes around the burner cap where gas exits, which can prevent a strong enough flame path for ignition. You can often solve the situation by removing the burner cap and grate when it is cool, wiping away any grease or residue, and clearing ports with a straight pin or thin wire. Don’t use a toothpick, as it can break and lodge in the port.

Question 9

What is an anti-tip bracket, and do I need to install them?

Accepted Answer

These small metal pieces are anti-tip brackets. They anchor the range, stove, or oven to the wall or floor. They are often left uninstalled, especially by non-professionals. That is a mistake. Anti-tip brackets should always be installed.

While ranges, stoves and ovens look heavy, they can be surprisingly easy to tip, as they are mostly hollow. Even the weight of a crawling infant or toddler can cause it to tip. Without an anti-tip bracket, you might even feel it move when you lean on it, or while lifting something heavy out of the oven.

Brackets dramatically lower the risk of injury or death. Installation is not costly, difficult, or time-consuming. Install them if you are doing the job yourself, and insist that an installer does this work if you are not.

Question 10

How do I know if my range has an anti-tip bracket installed, or if the anti-tip brackets are working correctly?

Accepted Answer

You can do this by looking at the bracket, but that’s usually difficult to do given the position of the range. An easier way is to turn the appliance off and clear everything off the cooktop. Firmly grip the upper rear of the range and see how secure it is. With a bracket in place, the appliance should not be able to move. This test is easier than looking for a bracket. It also proves that the bracket is working as intended.

Question 11

What’s the difference between convection and conventional baking?

Accepted Answer

Convection baking uses a fan to actively circulate hot air. It can help to avoid hot and cold spots in food and can speed up cooking. It’s best used for roasting meats and achieving crispy exteriors.

Conventional ovens are better for delicate items that can be disturbed by air flow, like soufflés or quick breads.

If you are changing from conventional to convection cooking, you may need to lower your cooking temperature by about 25°F, or cut your cooking time by about 25%, to get the results you want.

Question 12

How do I run a self-cleaning cycle for a range?

Accepted Answer

Take out the oven racks, broiler pans, foil, and any bakeware. Wipe up large food spills or grease pools. Close the oven door and locate the lock feature. Do not try to force the door to open once it’s locked, as it releases on its own when it cools. Select the self-clean setting and cycle length, start the cycle, and ventilate the kitchen.

It’s generally best to keep pets (especially birds) and people out of the area during the cycle, as a self-cleaning cycle can release fumes.

Let the oven finish the cycle and cool down fully, which can take another 30 to 60 minutes. Once the oven is cool and unlocked, wipe out the ash residue with a damp cloth.

Question 13

Is it safe to leave the house during a self-cleaning cycle for a range?

Accepted Answer

Check your owner’s manual first. While self-cleaning ranges, ovens, and stoves are designed to work unattended, most user manuals advise active oversight of the self-cleaning process, as being able to respond to smoke or a problem by ventilating the area is useful.

Regardless of the age of your appliance, you should make sure that it is free of large food chunks or excess grease, which can cause smoke or a flare. Often in self-cleaning cycles, issues arise from items missed in the pre-self-cleaning stage.

Question 14

Can I install a range or stove myself, or do I need a professional?

Accepted Answer

It depends heavily on whether you have an electric or gas range, and to a lesser extent, your comfort with electrical work and local code requirements.

Nearly all full-size electric ranges require a 240-volt plug, so a DIY effort must start with a receptacle in the right spot. Most replacement situations have one. If there isn’t an existing 240-volt circuit, you’ll need to have (or be) a licensed electrician to do the job yourself.

Many local building codes require a licensed professional to install a range or stove, as doing so requires connecting to an existing gas shutoff valve with a proper flexible connector, which also must be leak-tested. A mistake here could create a genuine public safety hazard from fires and explosions. Even if you are comfortable doing this work, many professionals recommend a professional double-check your work as there are clearance and venting specifications that matter for both safety and code compliance.

Keep in mind that with either electric or gas ranges, ovens or stoves, these appliances are usually heavy and awkward. A second pair of hands and special equipment can make this much safer for your health and your floors. Some warranties also require a professional or authorized installer to perform the installation to keep the warranty valid.

Question 15

Why is my oven temperature running hot or cold compared to the setting?

Accepted Answer

Thermostats can drift in calibration, especially during shipping and installation. They can also drift out of calibration due to normal wear, age, or sensors shifting slightly out of position. Heating in these appliances is usually not perfectly even, especially if they are conventional, rather than convection models. A worn or damaged door gasket can also let heat escape, which can cause longer heating or uneven temperatures, as well as higher utility bills.

Also keep in mind that most ovens don’t hold a perfectly constant temperature. They generally heat up past the set point slightly, coast down until the element kicks back on, and cycle as needed. Typically, even on well-calibrated units, an oscillation of 10 to 25°F is common.

Question 16

Can you safely use propane with a gas range?

Accepted Answer

Only with the correct conversion. The fuels are not interchangeable without modification.

Propane is supplied at a higher pressure and different BTU density than natural gas with more energy per cubic foot. Ranges are manufactured with specific orifices (small metal fittings that control gas flow to each burner) sized for one fuel type or the other. Using the wrong orifice size with the wrong fuel can cause a significant safety hazard by producing more carbon monoxide along with poor performance.

Conversion kits typically include different-sized orifices for each burner and the oven, as well as a regulator adjustment or replacement. Installing a conversion kit may be DIY-feasible by someone carefully following instructions. However, many local code requirements, warranties and insurance policies require a licensed technician to perform the conversion.

Question 17

Will my new range need special electrical outlets?

Accepted Answer

If they use electricity for heating instead of natural gas, probably. 240-volt circuits for electric ranges are typically required. If you are replacing a unit that was running on the correct power, the outlet is likely already in place. If you are placing it somewhere new or significantly changing the size of the appliance, maybe not. Check first.

Question 18

What happens if I try to plug in a range into an incorrect power outlet?

Accepted Answer

Usually nothing, as the plug physically does not fit as a safety feature. If you connect to 120-volt power through an adapter or replacement plug, most appliances simply won't work properly, with motors and electronics failing to run at the correct speed or power, control boards failing, and appliances with heating elements barely warming up. Connecting a 240-volt Kenmore range or stove to a 120-volt outlet will void the Kenmore warranty.

Workarounds also come with real risks, such as fire hazards, tripped breakers, electrical shocks, non-coverage from insurance policies, and so on. Hiring a licensed electrician for a relatively simple job of installing the proper outlet is really your only correct option.

Ranges, Stoves and Ovens

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