Question 1

What is “new dryer” or “new washer” smell?

Accepted Answer

Washers and dryers are made with special plastics with insulation between the walls. These materials can release a faint chemical odor after manufacturing. There are also trace amounts of lubricants, adhesives and protective coatings that can linger, especially behind panels. The rubber door gasket can also have a faint odor when new, and because the compartments close, the smell can linger. Washers and dryers encounter more humidity than the rest of a home, so smells concentrate rather than dissipate.

Question 2

How long will that smell last?

Accepted Answer

With washers, generally 1 to 3 cycles. Running an empty cycle with just water is a commonly recommended way to clear that smell. With dryers, the smell often clears in 1 to 3 uses, especially if you run an empty cycle on high heat first.

Question 3

Do you need to run an empty cycle before washing or drying real clothes?

Accepted Answer

It's recommended, especially with front load washers. Running an empty cycle without clothes, detergent or dryer sheets can help to clear out manufacturing residue and dust and flush out any leftover moisture from factory testing. Since front loaders hold more moisture than top loaders, the empty cycle at the start is a bigger benefit. The empty test cycle will also help you to avoid transferring a faint amount of the "new appliance" smell to your clothes. Even on an empty cycle, make sure to confirm proper leveling and hose connections.

Question 4

How do you level the machine to prevent movement and excessive vibrations?

Accepted Answer

Use a standard bubble level, or a smartphone level app, and check both side to side and front to back. Most machines need to be leveled in both directions. Check for a wobble, not just the level, as this will show that at least one of the legs is not making full contact with the floor. Locate the adjustable leveling legs and adjust to correct any tilt. Once the machine is level and stable, tighten the locking nut on each leg firmly against the underside of the cabinet, then test with a real cycle. If movement and excessive vibrations continue, start again – but keep in mind that unbalanced loads cause far more shaking. Redistributing items in the drum is often sufficient.

Question 5

Why is there standing water in the drum or gasket after the washer is done?

Accepted Answer

This is normal with new washers, especially front load washers where the design has a natural fold or pocket. This is part of how the gasket seals during the wash as water drains and the machine settles. Modern washer drums are designed with a slight amount of retained water, since a completely bone-dry drum immediately after a spin cycle is not achievable. It's best to wipe the area out and leave the door open between uses, so any residual moisture evaporates. Keep in mind that you will need to watch out for your children or pets so they do not get trapped in the unit.

Question 6

When is standing water in the drum or gasket after the washer is done a problem?

Accepted Answer

When it's a very significant amount of excess standing water. This usually points to a drainage problem from a clogged filter, kinked or clogged drain hose, or partially blocked drain line. It could also be a load balance issue that triggered a safety stop, or a genuine mechanical fault. If clothes are visibly soaked rather than just damp, it's a clear malfunction.

Question 7

How often do I need to clean the washer to prevent it from smelling like mildew?

Accepted Answer

It depends on how you define cleaning. If you wipe down the door gasket fold and leave the door and dispenser drawer open after each use to air dry, it will have a big impact and keep you from frequently having to perform bigger cleaning cycles.

Check your manual, but it is generally recommended that every 30 washes or once a month (whichever comes first) you do a dedicated cleaning cycle of your washer. If you have a self-clean option, use it to run an empty cycle specifically designed to clear detergent residue and biofilm buildup inside the drum and hidden components. If your model does not have a dedicated self-cleaning cycle, consult the owner’s manual. Often, it’s recommended to run the hottest and longest cycle available on empty. Check your manual for proper cleaning agents, as these vary depending on the model.

In addition, deep cleaning the gasket and dispenser drawer on a monthly basis is advised. Residue that builds on these is an often-overlooked source of mildew and odor. Wipe the gasket fold thoroughly, since mold can grow in less obvious creases.

Keep in mind that the design of front loading washers makes them more prone to mildew smell than traditional top loaders. That's because the door seal design traps moisture, and the drum does not drain out as freely by gravity. Front loading machines have other advantages, but this is the trade-off.

Question 8

What kind of detergent should I use in a new washer?

Accepted Answer

Check the manual to see if you should be using HE detergent, but more than any specific recommendation, use the correct amount. An excessive amount of detergent does not rinse out fully and can contribute to mold and mildew in the machine.

Question 9

What's the difference between cycle options in a washer, and what should I use?

Accepted Answer

The answer depends on what you are washing. Cycles differ in three ways.

How hard the drum agitates
How long the wash cycle runs
How fast it spins at the end.

For normal clothes like towels, jeans, and sheets, the normal setting is best. That's a strong agitation, long cycle, and fast spin.

The permanent-press setting is a medium agitation, and the cool-down rinse comes before the final spin, which is slower than other settings. It's best for synthetics, dress shirts, and wrinkle-prone items.

The delicate setting is a gentle agitation, shorter cycle run, and slow spin at the close. Use it for lingerie, silk, lace, sweaters, and anything else that is fragile.

Heavy duty is the strongest agitation, the longest cycle, and the fastest spin. Use it for work clothes, muddy items, or heavily soiled items.

A quick, speed or express cycle has short agitation and fewer rinses. Use it for small loads or lightly worn clothes.

A bulky or bedding setting uses extra water and a slower tumble, which also helps with the greater chance of an unbalanced load. Use it for comforters, blankets, and pillows.

A sanitize setting uses very hot water and a long cycle. It's best used for bedding and towels, or after an illness.

If you are still wondering which cycle to use, consult the care tag on your garment. That should have the last word on care.

Question 10

Why should I leave the door open for a front loading washer between uses?

Accepted Answer

It prevents mildew growth, which is the single biggest maintenance issue for front loading washers. The rubber door gasket also has folds and pockets that can create an ideal breeding ground for mold and mildew. The odor can transfer onto clean laundry, become difficult to remove or clean, and become a chronic issue, so just get into the habit of leaving it open. The fix costs nothing, but keep in mind that you will need to watch out for your children or pets so they do not get trapped in the unit.

Question 11

My new front loading washer seems to use very little water and has very few soap suds, especially compared to my old top loading washing machine. Is this normal?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and it's actually a benefit to you. Front loaders use 40 to 60% less water than comparable old-style top loaders. Less water used means less energy needed, and lower utility bills. Since the machine is using less water, you'll see fewer suds. If you see over-sudsing, you may be using too much detergent, or non-HE detergent. It could also indicate that the machine isn't rinsing properly.

Question 12

Why does my laundry have white residue on it after a wash cycle?

Accepted Answer

Newer washers use much less water, so detergent needs to be dosed accordingly. If you use a larger amount, the detergent may not dissolve and leave a residue on clothes.

Question 13

What happens to my washer if I forget to take wet laundry out of it promptly after the cycle ends?

Accepted Answer

It's best to avoid this, but if the delay is a few hours or less, it's fairly harmless. You might notice a faintly musty smell and some wrinkling.

If it's 8 hours (overnight) or longer, mildew and mold smell can begin developing in the wet fabric itself, and that smell can be stubborn. Getting rid of it might require a re-wash. Where moisture is trapped, particularly on natural fibers, mold spores or mildew can start to form on the fabric itself.

If the delay is multiple days, visible mold spotting can appear directly on fabric, and the washer drum and gasket themselves are at risk for mildew buildup. Permanent odor or staining can result, and not fully resolve, even with re-washing.

If you make a habit of leaving wet laundry for extended periods, it can easily lead to a persistent "musty washer" smell. Break the habit!

Question 14

How often should I clean the lint trap in the dryer?

Accepted Answer

Every single load, without exception. This is a hard rule for safety reasons, as lint is highly flammable, and a full or even partially clogged lint trap is one of the leading causes of dryer fires. Even a thin layer of lint will also make your dryer work harder and take longer to dry each load. If you clean the lint trap before every load, you'll notice more consistent and faster dryer, and lower utility bills.

Every month or so, wash the lint screen with warm soapy water and an old toothbrush. Dryer sheets can leave a filmy residue on the screen over time that you can't see but still restricts air flow.

Question 15

How often should I clean the dryer's vent duct?

Accepted Answer

First off, to be clear -- the dryer vent duct is the pipe that runs from the dryer to your home's exterior and needs separate attention. It's a risk factor that many people don't address, because they think the lint trap catches all the lint, but it does not.

It depends on how you use your dryer. Not just the number of cycles; factors like the presence of pet hair can also make more frequent cleaning necessary. At the very least, annually.

Question 16

What are the signs of a clogged dryer vent duct?

Accepted Answer

If you find that your clothes are taking longer to dry than they used to, the outside of the dryer feels hotter than normal, or the exterior vent flap is not opening fully during a cycle. All of these are signs of poor airflow, and the primary cause of poor air flow is a clogged vent duct.

Question 17

Can I use my old vent duct with a new dryer?

Accepted Answer

Generally, yes, especially if the duct is in good condition, rigid or semi-rigid metal, and if your new dryer is in the spec range of the duct (you aren't replacing a very small dryer with a very large one). If your duct is made of flexible plastic or foil, it's usually worth replacing, as it's (a) not a big expense, (b) something you may need to do to keep the warranty valid, and (c) the best course of action in terms of fire safety.

Question 18

My dryer feels hot to the touch on the outside. Is the dryer working correctly?

Accepted Answer

It depends on what you are defining as hot. Dryers often feel mildly warm to the touch during and right after a cycle, since heat naturally radiates outward from the drum, especially on longer or high heat cycles. The exhaust vent area can also feel warm, since a lot of hot and moist air is actively being pushed out. But if the dryer is genuinely hot, especially on the back or bottom but also anywhere on the cabinet, that can indicate restricted air flow. The culprit is usually a clogged lint trap or blocked or kinked vent duct. The heat is coming from a buildup of exhaust air that can't escape to the outside.

Question 19

What do "wrinkle guard" settings in a dryer actually do?

Accepted Answer

For washers, wrinkle guard setting extends the final spin phase with intermittent tumbling and pauses, rather than one continuous high-speed spin. This prevents your clothes from being pressed too tightly against the drum during spin-dry, which can set wrinkles before the load reaches the dryer.

For dryers, a wrinkle guard setting is a tumbling cycle without heat. Usually, it’s a few minutes of tumbling every 10 to 15 minutes. This prevents clothes from sitting balled up and compressed against the drum wall for hours, which is especially useful if you are not present to unload promptly at the end of the cycle. Deep wrinkles set in when fabric cools in a compressed position. It's a passive treatment.

While wrinkle guard settings can help, neither replaces using a clothes iron on heavily wrinkled fabric. This is more about solving mild wrinkles or preventing new ones. A garment that's already deeply creased will likely need ironing or a dedicated steamer to achieve good results.

Question 20

How do washers and dryers use steam?

Accepted Answer

Washers inject steam during the wash cycle itself, which can improve stain removal and sanitization by using higher effective heat than water alone. It also helps to relax fabric fibers, which can reduce wrinkling and static. It's an active treatment.

Dryers inject steam into the drum during tumbling, which relaxes fabric fibers and can noticeably reduce wrinkles on damp clothes without a full wash. This can also help reduce static and slightly freshen odor on clothes that don't need a full wash.

Question 21

Why is the washer so loud during the spin cycle?

Accepted Answer

The simple answer is that it's probably working harder than the machine it replaced.

Spin cycle noises are generally louder than other parts of a wash cycle by design. Modern washers tend to spin the drum at much higher RPMs (700-1,000 RPM), especially for high efficiency top loaders. Older conventional top loaders typically top out at 600 to 700 RPM. For front loaders, the speed has generally gone from 1,000 to 1,200 RPM to 1,200 to 1,600 RPM.

So, your final spin cycle in your new washer is going faster than older machines. This benefits you by getting more water out of your clothes, which gives your dryer an easier and faster job (and, well, lower utility bills). But it does often come with the trade-off of a little more noise.

Keep in mind that the law of diminishing returns tends to kick in for very high-speed wash cycles. Going from 1,000 to 1,200 RPM results in 10% less dampness. Going from 1,200 to 1,400 RPM only cuts dampness by an additional 3%.

Question 22

Why is the dryer making a squeaking or thumping sound?

Accepted Answer

Squeaking and thumping are very different.

Squeaking can be caused by worn rollers or bearings. The drum rests on these, and they can wear out over years of use. It can also be caused by a worn drive belt or a motor bearing getting worn down. But for new dryers, it's usually just components settling into place, and usually resolves in the first few uses. If the squeak doesn't diminish after the first week or two, it may be worth a warranty service call.

Thumping is usually caused by an unbalanced load. Bulky single items that tumble may be a sign that the load that the dryer is trying to handle is too large, which prevents clothes from being able to tumble freely as individual pieces. More serious issues from thumping can occur when something is loose inside the drum, or if the drum support roller is failing structurally, which causes the drum to rotate unevenly.

A good and simple diagnostic for thumping is to run the machine when it's empty. If the noise disappears completely, it's almost certainly load-related, and not mechanical, and your machine is probably OK. If you get a thump when the machine runs empty, that points to rollers, belts, bearings or pulleys, and warrants further investigation.

Question 23

What are the most likely issues when a dryer spins, but does not generate heat?

Accepted Answer

There are a number of possible causes.

It’s on the wrong setting. If you are using a dryer cycle of Air Fluff, No Heat, or Wrinkle Protection, it may be tumbling without heat as a feature. Change the setting.
There is a power issue. Electric dryers usually run on a 240-volt outlet, which uses a double breaker. If one of the breakers trips but the unit continues to spin, the heating element won’t work. Turn the breaker fully off, then back on.
If it's a tripped breaker, house wiring issue, or a clogged vent, generally not. If it's a defective heating element or thermostat, generally yes.

Question 24

How do I know if the water in my washing machine is "hard"?

Accepted Answer

To determine whether your water is hard, you should get a home-hardness test kit. Kits range from basic test strips to titration-based kits, to full lab water analysis. Depending on the option you chose, cost may range from $4.00 to over $350.00. Your water utility company may also publish an annual water quality report with data about the hardness of your water.

By some estimates, roughly 85% of American households have water that qualifies as "hard", with local geography (especially a high amount of limestone or groundwater heavy regions) being the main driver. The softest water is generally in the Northeast and Pacific Northwest, while the hardest water is in the Southwest, Texas and Midwest.

Question 25

Does hard water impact the performance of a washing machine?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Hard water reduces the effectiveness of detergent, as the minerals react with the detergent to form a residue, and sometimes a stiff or scratchy feel in embedded fibers. It also contributes to mineral scale buildup inside the machine itself. This can shorten the effective life of your components. This is why your standard monthly "clean cycle" is recommended.

Question 26

Is it better to solve hard water for my whole house, rather than using single-use additives for each appliance that uses water?

Accepted Answer

A whole-house softener is the most thorough fix, but it's a major installation expense. This is generally a decision that people make for their own comfort (hard water in showers causing skin issues), rather than preventive appliance care or future investment.

Question 27

Will my new washer or dryer need special electrical outlets?

Accepted Answer

Yes, if they generate heat by electricity instead of natural gas. 240-volt circuits for electric dryers are typically required. If you are replacing a unit that was running on the right power, the outlet is likely already in place. If you are placing it somewhere new or significantly changing the size of the appliance, maybe not. Check first.

Question 28

What happens if I try to plug in a major appliance into the wrong kind of electrical outlet?

Accepted Answer

Usually nothing, as the plug physically does not fit as a safety feature. If you connect to 120-volt power through an adapter or replacement plug, most appliances simply won't work properly, with motors and electronics failing to run at the correct speed or power, control boards failing, and appliances with heating elements barely warming up. Connecting a 240-volt Kenmore range or stove to a 120-volt outlet will void the Kenmore warranty.

Workarounds also come with real risks, such as fire hazards, tripped breakers, electrical shocks, non-coverage from insurance policies, and so on. Hiring a licensed electrician for a relatively simple job of installing the proper outlet is really your only correct option.

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