Specifications & Dimensions
|Accessory Type:||Installation accessory|
|Accessory Type:||Installation kit|
|Kit or Set Type:||Filter installation kit|
|Overall Type:||Filter installation kit|
|Overall Dimensions:||Tubing: 300; Union: 0.25 x 0.25 in.|
Ratings & Reviews
This copper refrigerator hose allows quick, easy connection of your refrigerator to your waterline. This copper tubing is easy to install—just follow the simple step-by-step instructions.
Kit includes the following:
- Two compression fittings
- One 1/4" x 1/4 union
- One 25’ copper tubing
- One saddle valve
- Available for Gift Wrap
Added on June 29, 2010
Overall, others give this:
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Most Helpful Reviews
Our new fridge is Whirlpool, however, this worked perfectly fine. I couldn't find any kits longer than 20 feet that were not plastic. I'd have to buy a valve and coil separately, which would cost much more. This is 25 feet has a good flow, should last a century. Other reviewers don't understand the difference between this and the self piercing valves. Yes, it's much easier to pierce a pipe with a needle, however, unless you want your water/ice dispenser to produce drops of water, you have to drill an actual hole and use this type of a valve. The other thing to remember: be careful not to kink the line, don't pull on it, don't cause it to bend down and pinch, this will kill it. I left about 10 extra feet in round coil behind the fridge so I could pull it back and clean it.
We ran this and used nylon clips to strap it to the wall. Used a T adaption for the under sink connection and more compression fittings. I researched a bit and decided to put a screw fitting on the frig end and connect a flexible connector. The soft copper can possibly bend shut when the refrigerator is pushed back. By connecting a flexible hose this will never happen. Especially for those that want to occasionally pull the frig out to clean behind.
I purchased this as a recommended add-on with my refrigerator and was told that I needed it to have my water line installed by the delivery men. After waiting for a late delivery was told that my delivery man can't install this portion of the water line - that I would need to hire a plumber to install it. I wish I had known that I needed to hire a plumber before delivery so that the delivery person could just hook up the refrigerator during delivery to make sure that everything worked properly.
Here is basically what I did and it worked out fairly well. Total time was about 15-20 minutes. I drilled a 5/8" hole down through the kitchen floor to the basement. I straightened out the copper coil to go down through the floor (BE CAREFUL, the copper kinks EASILY!) I ran down through the floor and routed it to a close cold water line. I turned off the main water supply to the house (shutoff valve coming in from the street). I then 'test' fit the 'clamp' assembly (the part with the valve) around the pipe to make sure I could get at the 2 screws to clamp it together and also get to the valve to turn it on/off. I then took a nail (it was actually a roofing nail, but anything should do) and made a modest but noticable dimple in the pipe (by hitting the nail with a hammer) where the oriface would enter the pipe (I did this becase it would have been VERY hard to drill into a round pipe without a dimple for the drill bit to ride in. The instructions say to use a hand drill, I didn't have one so I used my electric (this was my choice, BEWARE .. electric drills and running water do not mix). I first drilled a 1/8" hole. Water WILL come out even though you have the main shut off. I waited until it was down to a few drips per minute and then drilled the 1/4" hole. Drilling in 2 steps is much easier. I then assembled the 'clamp' valve around the pipe and lined up the 'nipple' that goes into the 1/4" hole that I drilled. Make SURE you have the black rubber washer over the nipple. I then started turning the clamping screws (EQUALLY) until I thought is was tight. Make sure the valve on the clamp in shut off (turn clockwise all the way), and turn on your main household water valve. It's best to have someone watch for leaks while you do this. No leaks, your done. If you have a major spray or steady stream, shut off main household water valve and tighten 2 clamp screws more, then re-test. If you have a slight drip, just start tightening the 2 clamp screws (1/2 turn EACH). Make sure the entire clamp looks even around the pipe. I had a slight leak (drip every second or two). I keep tightening each clamp screw (evenly) until it sealed. Next push the 'female' nut onto the copper coil water line, then the 'ferrel' (little copper piece) onto the copper coil. Push the end of the copper coil (with the ferrel on the end) into the 'male' (part with threads you can see) attachment of the clamp valve. Slide the 'female' nut down and screw onto the valve. I tightened to where the wrench started to get some resistance, the another 1/2 turn. Once the OTHER end is connected to your refrigerator (or whatever), open the clamp valve (counterclockwise) and check for leaks. I had some, have to tighten the 'female' nut another turn and a half. That was it. Not long, still don't leak (3 days). Hope this helps someone!
My husband has installed the self tapping version and this one you have to drill a whole into the pipe! Needless to say, it didn't work and it leaked -- ended up getting a plumber in to install and shut-off valve, etc. and some $$ later, we finally had it. Note: the plumber said that he's never seen such a installation kit (it should be self tapping)!
Good kit easy to use, but does not meet code for use in Massachusetts. Code calles for hard soldered water valve to be installed to meet building codes.